'86 250 YPVS Restore

[Gavin]

James, why go with the 5 and not the 4 any reason? The one on the right is bent from me dropping it. Only slight but on the lathe it's more obvious.


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[James W.]

Gav, it seems unlikely that a needle would bent from being dropped.
Unless you stood on it, I find they are generally fairly robust.

Longer needles usually go with larger/taller carbs, but there can be overlap,
esp' if there is a extension between the ET/NJ & MJ.

Assemble the longer #5 needle into the slide, & see if it seats properly in the carb ET/NJ.

If you have a look on Ian William's site, there is a fair bit of useful data there.

[Gavin]

Managed to straighten the old needles which went back in. Have now collected the tank and bodywork from collideascope in Hornsby. Thought it was worth uploading a few pics in case anyone else is looking for some work done. I'm very happy with the results. The tank came back mint with a liner too. A few minutes tapping the paint and liner out of the threads and it's ready to go back on. Fuel test to see if I rebuilt that vacuum tap correctly.


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[JonW]

Looks great, I meant to drop up and have a look but the time never came available :/

[Gavin]

Now have the front end pulled apart. Brake calipers sent off to the soda blasting man. I'll spray them with calipers spray when clean and I've replaced the seals. Also have the forks out with the intention of replacing the seals and rebuild. First up, I can't work out what the original finish on the sliders is supposed to be. I have three distinct finishes. A mirrored polish, a brushed aluminium polish and a grey spray job with a clear coat over the top. The last also has a rough pitted effect which may be something to do with the paint? Anyway, can someone help out with what the original should be or if what I have is considered normal? Pics should follow. Thanks.


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[JonW]

Pretty normal, these bikes were built to a price remember.

[BRG1200]

I'd day most Yam forks were clear coat over satin aluminium.
I lived in salty old England, had plenty of pitting and flaky lacqeur.

[Gavin]

I've checked out a few now and none of them seem consistent. I'll polish up what I can and clear coat the lot. When it's moving you won't see it that clearly. There is pitting in the chrome on the stanchions but it's above the travel of the fork seals. I'll leave that for now as it looks like about $600 to rechrome the pair. Thanks for the response.


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[JonW]

its more like 300 in Auburn who do good work.

[Gavin]

Hmmm, I got $300 each from trawling the Internet forums. $300 per pair puts it in reach but I'll rebuild them and put them back in as is for now and use the cash elsewhere, saving the rechrome for next time they come out. Good to know though. Ta


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[L.B.]

A1 hard chrome,got a pair done last year for a rz. $300 bucks for the pair....
They are also know about the nylon bush in the bottom of the legs & work around these so they are not damaged/melted...

[Gavin]

I sent A1 an email about the rechrome and some other metal polishing jobs. They didn't respond but simply forwarded it on to Geoff at Bling My Bike which was a bit embarrassing as I'd asked him for a quote too. Luckily I'm happy with Geoff, he's done my engine casings in the past. It's quality work at a decent price.


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[JonW]

Thats weird, why would they turn away work?

[Gavin]

By way of an update and to keep the thread alive hopefully until I finish this thing, I'm posting another question. I thought the end was in sight but now realise that to do it right might mean starting from the beginning again. I'm sure someone on here said it was easy....

Anyway, the bike isn't running right. The only bit of advice I didn't follow from you good folks is to purchase a leak test kit. I mean, how hard is it to fit a gasket. Yeah, I know. That was rhetorical. So I order the kit from the UK. One of the many orders that means sit and wait another 2 weeks. Kit arrives and I strip the carbs and exhaust off and test. The exhaust paper gasket is shredded and takes another day to clean away the gunk. Now to order another gasket set. Sit and wait another 2 weeks.
The system holds 6psi for about 4 seconds before leaking to 0psi. I don't know where to start but suspect the ypvs is leaking, along with every gasket I put on. Which means the engine will have to come out, which also means draining every bit of fluid. 1 step forward 6 back.

Meanwhile back at the carbs. I wanted to check that I have all the holes correct. Could anyone confirm the carb holes for the RHS carb?

A = vacuum to fuel tap
B = blocked off or bunged up
C = far end of choke link
D = fk?



I'm now wondering if I have the carbs off do I get them bead blasted too or will this just introduce the potential to block up the carbs?
I'll also cross post this on Norbo's forum as I need my posting numbers up so I can see the classifieds.




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[mboddy]

A is a vent
C is far end of choke link
D is vacuum to fuel tap