Got 2 86 models,the swing arm....this is normal if someone has pumped too much grease into swinger.Just gently pry/push them back into place,all will be fine.
Did you find the cause of the blow up?
Did you replace crank?Fix it or the head?
Def need to do a leak down/vaccum test when you finish rebuilding it,before starting it!.
'86 250 YPVS Restore
Re: '86 250 YPVS Restore
So let's start with some answers:
GMU - The nut came off by cutting a small nick in the side and tapping it off. Messed up the nut with some locking grips but the stud wasn't harmed.
L.B - Seems like the seizure was a combination of the pistons and crank suffering from weather over about 7 years of standing. I'm not replacing the crank just yet, it's all moving freely so I want to see it running before I start throwing more money at it. It's a big learning curve for me but I'm enjoying it as it's satiating my OCD
. This is really just a dummy run before I start on the 500.
The PVs came out with a bit more pressure and a rubber mallet. I can see why they were being stubborn.
I'll get the PVs cleaned and re-fitted next week in time for the gaskets and rings being delivered.
Done the air box / Battery holder. Anything else while the engine is out that can't be done afterwards?
I found fine steel wool, then green scotch pads worked best for coked up valves. Bit of grease and they slide beautifully.
The bore cases didn't come up as good as I hoped. Will try the paint stripper gel again next week and failing that I'll go for a satin black spray job.
Jon - I was looking at putting red hoses on the coolant system. Do you have a pic of how they look?
Cheers
Gavin
GMU - The nut came off by cutting a small nick in the side and tapping it off. Messed up the nut with some locking grips but the stud wasn't harmed.
L.B - Seems like the seizure was a combination of the pistons and crank suffering from weather over about 7 years of standing. I'm not replacing the crank just yet, it's all moving freely so I want to see it running before I start throwing more money at it. It's a big learning curve for me but I'm enjoying it as it's satiating my OCD
. This is really just a dummy run before I start on the 500.The PVs came out with a bit more pressure and a rubber mallet. I can see why they were being stubborn.
I'll get the PVs cleaned and re-fitted next week in time for the gaskets and rings being delivered.
Done the air box / Battery holder. Anything else while the engine is out that can't be done afterwards?
I found fine steel wool, then green scotch pads worked best for coked up valves. Bit of grease and they slide beautifully.
The bore cases didn't come up as good as I hoped. Will try the paint stripper gel again next week and failing that I'll go for a satin black spray job.
Jon - I was looking at putting red hoses on the coolant system. Do you have a pic of how they look?
Cheers
Gavin
86 RZ250F restored. 84 RZ500 rebuild in progress, 73 CT3 in progress
Re: '86 250 YPVS Restore
My F1 build on my site has red hoses...
The crank... with that much nastiness above it you really shouldnt run it. Sorry but you will need new crank seals anyway after this amount of time.
Send the crank to one of the guys on this forum who knows cranks (I use Link personally) and he will whip it apart and tell you the news, if its all good it was good insurance, if its bad news he saved you a packet as a blow up would take out more than the crank...
Just my 2c, but I doubt anyone here would disagree with me and tell you to run it unless they were being mean :/
The crank... with that much nastiness above it you really shouldnt run it. Sorry but you will need new crank seals anyway after this amount of time.
Send the crank to one of the guys on this forum who knows cranks (I use Link personally) and he will whip it apart and tell you the news, if its all good it was good insurance, if its bad news he saved you a packet as a blow up would take out more than the crank...
Just my 2c, but I doubt anyone here would disagree with me and tell you to run it unless they were being mean :/
Re: '86 250 YPVS Restore
It's a mechanical thing. There is absolutely no reason it won't run if it's done properly.Gavin wrote:I want to see it running before I start throwing more money at it.
As Jon has mentioned - you're opening yourself up to heartache for a few hundred bucks (or less if its OK).
If you think the seizure was because of environmental issues, you're crazy to expect this to run for any length of time.
Spinning the crank by hand is far from what it will experience when running.
Don't take these shortcuts when you build a 500
RD350LC- RGV Mods, PWK28's
RZ500 - YZR Replica, PWK28's
RZ500 - YZR Replica, PWK28's
Re: '86 250 YPVS Restore
Ok, Link it is. I guess the reason I'm reluctant is I'm getting out of my depth just opening the engine casing. I wouldn't know how to get the crank out or what a bad or good one looks like. I'm happy to follow all the advice from the experienced forum members, I just don't want to bugger something up. It's not a case of shortcuts or shoddy workmanship. Maybe when the Haynes manual turns up I'll feel a little more comfortable. Keep the advice coming, it is appreciated and helping.
I'll drain the oil and find the bolts that open the cases. I ordered a full set of gaskets from Norbo. Would that kit have the correct gaskets and seals or do I need to order something else?
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I'll drain the oil and find the bolts that open the cases. I ordered a full set of gaskets from Norbo. Would that kit have the correct gaskets and seals or do I need to order something else?
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
86 RZ250F restored. 84 RZ500 rebuild in progress, 73 CT3 in progress
Re: '86 250 YPVS Restore
This will be a very good experience for you, because if for no other reason, you'll see how simple these engines are.
Pretty much once the cases come apart, the crank just lifts out, as do all the gearbox parts. Easy as can be.
If the gearbox looks OK though, I would just leave it all sitting in there so you can just drop the crank back in once checked/fixed and bolt the cases back together.
All the bolts to split the cases are underneath. There's quite a few of them, but can't remember the figure off the top of my head.
Pretty much once the cases come apart, the crank just lifts out, as do all the gearbox parts. Easy as can be.
If the gearbox looks OK though, I would just leave it all sitting in there so you can just drop the crank back in once checked/fixed and bolt the cases back together.
All the bolts to split the cases are underneath. There's quite a few of them, but can't remember the figure off the top of my head.
RD350LC- RGV Mods, PWK28's
RZ500 - YZR Replica, PWK28's
RZ500 - YZR Replica, PWK28's
Re: '86 250 YPVS Restore
By the way, here's a Microfiche for you in case it helps.
http://www.mustangtech.com.au/JM/Microfiches4L0-81.zip
http://www.mustangtech.com.au/JM/Microfiches4L0-81.zip
RD350LC- RGV Mods, PWK28's
RZ500 - YZR Replica, PWK28's
RZ500 - YZR Replica, PWK28's
Re: '86 250 YPVS Restore
There are some bolts on the top as well Jeff...
Gavin, get the manual and read up first, you will be much the wiser. take your time. have space for the bolts and parts., lots of rags for cleaning and do it methodically and you wont come unstuck. When you done a few you can just do it without so much of the methodically bit, but for now, go slowly. Its easy enough.
Gavin, get the manual and read up first, you will be much the wiser. take your time. have space for the bolts and parts., lots of rags for cleaning and do it methodically and you wont come unstuck. When you done a few you can just do it without so much of the methodically bit, but for now, go slowly. Its easy enough.
Re: '86 250 YPVS Restore
Good to hear your doing the crank,Link is the man.
Those pv's look to be in very good condition,you should get away with just the o rings & the crown seals.
One word tho,look into vacuum/leak down test kit,a must on a new engine.Guy in UK is making some now & should be ready in couple weeks,Jon & I are getting one each........Ive just finished an engine & about to start another,so cheap insurance.
Also before you split your engine,degrease it top to bottom,just makes it alot easier when bolting back together & stops oily dirt n shit getting inside g/box etc..
Those pv's look to be in very good condition,you should get away with just the o rings & the crown seals.
One word tho,look into vacuum/leak down test kit,a must on a new engine.Guy in UK is making some now & should be ready in couple weeks,Jon & I are getting one each........Ive just finished an engine & about to start another,so cheap insurance.
Also before you split your engine,degrease it top to bottom,just makes it alot easier when bolting back together & stops oily dirt n shit getting inside g/box etc..
Re: '86 250 YPVS Restore
The stalled project is back on
Well, the manual arrived from the UK along with a box of other bits and pieces. I read up on splitting the cases and will attempt this next week.
I've also got new rings and some gaskets. I didn't order oil seals as I wasn't expecting to pull the crank out. Is there any way to buy these locally without the wait for OS shipping?
If I'm putting another order in to RDcrazy does anyone have a list of items I'm going to need rather than me finding out 'on the go' and placing an order each week.?
More to follow I'm sure.....
Well, the manual arrived from the UK along with a box of other bits and pieces. I read up on splitting the cases and will attempt this next week.
I've also got new rings and some gaskets. I didn't order oil seals as I wasn't expecting to pull the crank out. Is there any way to buy these locally without the wait for OS shipping?
If I'm putting another order in to RDcrazy does anyone have a list of items I'm going to need rather than me finding out 'on the go' and placing an order each week.?
More to follow I'm sure.....
86 RZ250F restored. 84 RZ500 rebuild in progress, 73 CT3 in progress
Re: '86 250 YPVS Restore
If youre spliting the cases then yes you need new crank seals. you can get all the seals from Yamaha, but they wont be cheap locally, but, you do need OEM crank seals anyway, never use anything else. the other seals you can use any, and if you pull the ones in your motor you can see the sizes on em and get em from a bearing and seal supplier in Sydney, again, it wont be cheap here...
There isnt really a hard n fast list, but general seals, general gaskets, oil, water, locking tabs, threebond 1211, OEM head and base gaskets, OEM cranks seals. Have Gary in the uk (on most forums as Arrow) do your oil pump (tell him i sent you) and fit new lines and clips. by a new crank or send the one you have to Link (contact info on here). There is more of course, but thats a good setup to start with, extra include chain/sprockets, carb rebuild kits, airfilter...
HTH.
There isnt really a hard n fast list, but general seals, general gaskets, oil, water, locking tabs, threebond 1211, OEM head and base gaskets, OEM cranks seals. Have Gary in the uk (on most forums as Arrow) do your oil pump (tell him i sent you) and fit new lines and clips. by a new crank or send the one you have to Link (contact info on here). There is more of course, but thats a good setup to start with, extra include chain/sprockets, carb rebuild kits, airfilter...
HTH.
Re: '86 250 YPVS Restore
Well that was a long pause between posts....
So I'm now back at the bench and the rebuild is underway. Here's where I either find items missing from the strip down or realise that I should have ordered something that is needed before I put pieces back together. Case in point is the pic below. I can't seem to find the second half of a circlip indicated by the rhs green oval. Does this circlip come in two halves or just one?
Next question.
In putting the PVs back together I fitted the castle seals but the orange o ring seals I received seem to be slightly larger than the old ones that came out. Are there two sizes and I ordered the wrong ones or does everyone fit the larger ones these days for some reason. Seems a poor fit but what do I know...
As usual your sagely advice is invaluable. Thanks, Gavin
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
So I'm now back at the bench and the rebuild is underway. Here's where I either find items missing from the strip down or realise that I should have ordered something that is needed before I put pieces back together. Case in point is the pic below. I can't seem to find the second half of a circlip indicated by the rhs green oval. Does this circlip come in two halves or just one?
Next question.
In putting the PVs back together I fitted the castle seals but the orange o ring seals I received seem to be slightly larger than the old ones that came out. Are there two sizes and I ordered the wrong ones or does everyone fit the larger ones these days for some reason. Seems a poor fit but what do I know...
As usual your sagely advice is invaluable. Thanks, Gavin
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
86 RZ250F restored. 84 RZ500 rebuild in progress, 73 CT3 in progress
Re: '86 250 YPVS Restore
Trying to put the engine back together. Immediately hit several hurdles.
1) within the seals, there's a spring. Does this face away from the engine or towards? Is this the same for each seal?
The Haynes manual mentions fitting the tacho wheel but I don't seem to have one. Should the hole be plugged somehow?
The manual says, spread the gasket sealant around the face in a continuous line. Surely not over the seals? Do I only apply on the metal mating surfaces?
I have renewed determination, but lacking experience....
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1) within the seals, there's a spring. Does this face away from the engine or towards? Is this the same for each seal?
The Haynes manual mentions fitting the tacho wheel but I don't seem to have one. Should the hole be plugged somehow?
The manual says, spread the gasket sealant around the face in a continuous line. Surely not over the seals? Do I only apply on the metal mating surfaces?
I have renewed determination, but lacking experience....
Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk
86 RZ250F restored. 84 RZ500 rebuild in progress, 73 CT3 in progress
Re: '86 250 YPVS Restore
Gavin, good news on the determination, pleased to hear it 
Scooter help is good for what youre doing, and there are some banshee vids online:
http://www.scooterhelp.com/RZ_help/rest ... crank.html
Anyway, what youve done looks k to me.
no seal on the bearing or seal parts, not needed.
85 on bikes dont have the tacho parts, they are electric on those models.
Scooter help is good for what youre doing, and there are some banshee vids online:
http://www.scooterhelp.com/RZ_help/rest ... crank.html
Anyway, what youve done looks k to me.
no seal on the bearing or seal parts, not needed.
85 on bikes dont have the tacho parts, they are electric on those models.