OK, saved up enough to repkace the non compliant brake hoses on the project LC, got them fitted and the “cost effective” new chinese master has shit itself.
No pressure despite new bespoke hoses and the brakes place trying to bleed them out.
Who provides replacement reliable 350LC master cylinders apart from Yamaha?
I suspect I’ll end up saving up for gen Yam but if there’s a cheaper safe viable alternative I’m all ears.
Budget is an issue, school fees, bills etc is killing domestic finances.
Ferfuxsake
Ferfuxsake
Ex UK, now in Adelaide. LC250/350. DT175. Shed full of sh1t in the vague form of dismantled rusty RD’s and RZ’s.
Re: Ferfuxsake
I think Yambits did sell them D but I haven’t looked recently. If you are really stuck, I may have a spare genuine MC in my box but it would need refurbing.
Re: Ferfuxsake
Are you sure youve bled it correctly? Its worth tying the lever to bars overnight and seeing if that helps. A reverse bleed with a big syringe can help too.
I never use the chinese cheapies, but it should work. Im sure its just needing bleeding.
I never use the chinese cheapies, but it should work. Im sure its just needing bleeding.
Re: Ferfuxsake
Long story, but bike has to get thru government yard inspection to get South Australian rego.
Hoses were non-compliant, had to be replaced.
Master cylinder was goosed, was replaced with generic “chinese” unit.
Brakes were working (with new master but old hoses).
Got a lift with a mate who has trailer to japanese car soecialist, recommended by a friend who’s a 30+ year bike mechanic. This place has done work for him and does bikes every so often.
They made and fitted new compliant hoses yesterday.
They could not get pressure in the system, blaming master cylinder which they believe faulty.
We had to get back down from the Hills to colkect ourvrespective kids from school, so had to take at his word and hopefully fix master cylinder later.
Due to shifts, family etc etc I have very fragmented time to do anything and to put it simply I thought taking it to a specialist would be the more exoensive but simplest thing to do.
WRONG. No such thing as simple, even when you throw hard-won money at things.
Hoses were non-compliant, had to be replaced.
Master cylinder was goosed, was replaced with generic “chinese” unit.
Brakes were working (with new master but old hoses).
Got a lift with a mate who has trailer to japanese car soecialist, recommended by a friend who’s a 30+ year bike mechanic. This place has done work for him and does bikes every so often.
They made and fitted new compliant hoses yesterday.
They could not get pressure in the system, blaming master cylinder which they believe faulty.
We had to get back down from the Hills to colkect ourvrespective kids from school, so had to take at his word and hopefully fix master cylinder later.
Due to shifts, family etc etc I have very fragmented time to do anything and to put it simply I thought taking it to a specialist would be the more exoensive but simplest thing to do.
WRONG. No such thing as simple, even when you throw hard-won money at things.
Ex UK, now in Adelaide. LC250/350. DT175. Shed full of sh1t in the vague form of dismantled rusty RD’s and RZ’s.
Re: Ferfuxsake
I would be surpised if a working master failed just after a swap of hoses. Sadly not all mechanics are good at everything D, Im sure weve been over that ground before.
They are simple parts and are not hard to bleed, but you need to check all the joints to look for any chance air can get in and also make sure the fluid is in the calipers. Do that with a vac bleeder, its worth investing in one or at least something to do that job (read on). I sigh when mechanics tell me they never use one and have 'never had an issue', yeah right, it really helps. Sometimes old guys are a nightmare with this stuff. Vac bleeders can be replaced by a decent sized hyperdermic from the local pet places and a bit of clear hose. dont let the master cyl get too low. then tie the lever to the bars and leave it over night. pump it a few times and the repeat. do that a few times. you really dont need to do that with normal calipers on these bikes, vac bleeding always has worked for me. Its easy to do.
If that fails then reverse bleed it, ie push the fluid in from the caliper up to the master reservoir. If that fails to get a lever, its a master problem.
All that said... really changing hoses should never kill a master, that sounds like a mechanic blaming something rather than himself. Sure it happens, but... well... Normally if something doesnt work after you change something, its the thing thats been changed. You might want to check fluid is coming thru these new hoses, they might not be any good?
They are simple parts and are not hard to bleed, but you need to check all the joints to look for any chance air can get in and also make sure the fluid is in the calipers. Do that with a vac bleeder, its worth investing in one or at least something to do that job (read on). I sigh when mechanics tell me they never use one and have 'never had an issue', yeah right, it really helps. Sometimes old guys are a nightmare with this stuff. Vac bleeders can be replaced by a decent sized hyperdermic from the local pet places and a bit of clear hose. dont let the master cyl get too low. then tie the lever to the bars and leave it over night. pump it a few times and the repeat. do that a few times. you really dont need to do that with normal calipers on these bikes, vac bleeding always has worked for me. Its easy to do.
If that fails then reverse bleed it, ie push the fluid in from the caliper up to the master reservoir. If that fails to get a lever, its a master problem.
All that said... really changing hoses should never kill a master, that sounds like a mechanic blaming something rather than himself. Sure it happens, but... well... Normally if something doesnt work after you change something, its the thing thats been changed. You might want to check fluid is coming thru these new hoses, they might not be any good?
Re: Ferfuxsake
Long delayed response.
I was baffled as to why the brakes were useless on the LC right after having bespoke hoses fitted by a professional who appeared baffled after trying to bleed them.
Brought the bike home, left it for a day and did what I usually do to bleed brakes, and a few bubbles later I had firm brakes.
After watching an episode of Delboys Garage on youtube I came to the conclusion the fluid simply had bubbles in suspension which had slowly settled out, allowing me to simply do the last bleed.
Still, thought of a great way to play a nasty practical joke on someone - give their bottle of fresh brake fluid a damn good shake
I was baffled as to why the brakes were useless on the LC right after having bespoke hoses fitted by a professional who appeared baffled after trying to bleed them.
Brought the bike home, left it for a day and did what I usually do to bleed brakes, and a few bubbles later I had firm brakes.
After watching an episode of Delboys Garage on youtube I came to the conclusion the fluid simply had bubbles in suspension which had slowly settled out, allowing me to simply do the last bleed.
Still, thought of a great way to play a nasty practical joke on someone - give their bottle of fresh brake fluid a damn good shake
Ex UK, now in Adelaide. LC250/350. DT175. Shed full of sh1t in the vague form of dismantled rusty RD’s and RZ’s.
Re: Ferfuxsake
The removal of bubbles is exactly what tying the lever to bar does... I would still do this on your bike.
Re: Ferfuxsake
Will do Jonny Boy
Attention now diverted to daughters DT175 (fast becoming a regretful and expensive purchase)
Attention now diverted to daughters DT175 (fast becoming a regretful and expensive purchase)
Ex UK, now in Adelaide. LC250/350. DT175. Shed full of sh1t in the vague form of dismantled rusty RD’s and RZ’s.