RZ250 carbies

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JPG
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RZ250 carbies

Post by JPG »

I have a set of carbs on my bike with corrosion due to water getting in - the bike was outside and exposed to the elements for some years. Anything new appears to be duplicates of the same thing, while the internals on the originals are different. I'm not sure if that matters. How would the choke work, for example? I read (Graham Bell) about the advantages of flat-slide, but haven't seen anything about the 250 and that combination. Anyone here has experience? Mikuni 28 mm flat-slides appear to be fairly reasonably priced, which is partly why I'm thinking of going that way. I'd like to hear if anyone has some experience or know of reasons why that might be a problem.
BRG1200
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Re: RZ250 carbies

Post by BRG1200 »

Question is what is the actual damage?
I’ve cleaned revolting looking carbs and found it surprising how niice they can come up.
Change the jets and/or needles out?
Get a kit of gaskets and o-rings etc?
Ex UK, now in Adelaide. LC250/350. DT175. Shed full of sh1t in the vague form of dismantled rusty RD’s and RZ’s.
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Re: RZ250 carbies

Post by BRG1200 »

Shut me up if its a granny sucking eggs comment but have you tried all the various cleaning chemicals? Carb cleaner is nicely aggressive with old petrol goo.
One of the things I find oddly satisfying these days is cleaning revolting old parts to find the original finish is often intact underneath the crud.
Ex UK, now in Adelaide. LC250/350. DT175. Shed full of sh1t in the vague form of dismantled rusty RD’s and RZ’s.
JPG
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Re: RZ250 carbies

Post by JPG »

Ha ha. Good comments. Trouble is, as soon as I check prices of gaskets, jets, etc, a new set of carbs seems cheaper. Do you have any suggestions for removing the corrosion? I tried deruster and it works to some extent, but when I blow air through the various bits the two carbs behave differently. Also, I have trouble knowing what is supposed to be open on one and not the other. For example, in the float bowl one carb's design is quite different from the other. Not sure if the corrosion is hiding an aperture or it is meant to be sealed off. It seems a sure way to start off on a wrong foot if I'm not sure the carbs can do their bit - happy to be contradicted if there's a viable solution
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Re: RZ250 carbies

Post by BRG1200 »

From memory the float bowls should be practically identical.
Could you have “bitsa” carbs?
Ex UK, now in Adelaide. LC250/350. DT175. Shed full of sh1t in the vague form of dismantled rusty RD’s and RZ’s.
JPG
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Re: RZ250 carbies

Post by JPG »

Bitsa? Bits and pieces? The bike used to run fine when it was still running. Never liked getting wet though. I spent many miserable evenings after work trying to get it started during rain
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Re: RZ250 carbies

Post by Ozhammer »

Not sure about the RZ250 carbs specifically but most Yam twins only have the choke feed in the bowl for the left carby, so I would expect the right bowl to be different.

HTH
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Re: RZ250 carbies

Post by JonW »

Its just a hole in the bottom isnt it?

PWK 28s will work, but you will need to find jets that work on the 250, most people use them on 350s.

The KX85 is the ones people usually buy, dont buy copies like OKO etc on ebay, they are not good.

Put up pics of what you have, we are just throwing ideas in the dark without them.
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Re: RZ250 carbies

Post by JPG »

I took some photos but they're too large to attach and iPad doesn't allow me to reduce the file size. Will make another plan. The bottom of the carbs have at least 2 differences I can spot and the float bowls have a hole in the one but not the other.
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Re: RZ250 carbies

Post by JPG »

Let's see if this works...
Image

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Re: RZ250 carbies

Post by JPG »

Sorry, resolution isn't good enough. At least you can see the extent of the damage
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Re: RZ250 carbies

Post by JonW »

that looks like the right combination of left n right, ie one (right?) has holes that the other doesnt. Defo need to find something to eat that oxidisation and see whats left and go from there really.
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