2 Strokes Down Under

OK, Wheels, Forks, Swinger n Brakes getting sorted for the re-build, now what to do with the Frame ???
Can anyone suggest frame welder in Sydney / NSW and what bracing I should be doing before I strip the frame and get it powder coated. May as well go the whole hog !

Seriously ditch the Lc frame use a Tzr 2ma one with the cradle mod,no matter what you do to the frame it still wont handle .U need box section not tubular.

Even better Rgv with the cradle mod.

Ant

Seriously that would be cool, if you can get one, and if you can afford it...
Anyone got one lying around ?

Hyside on here had one for sale on ebay a few weeks ago. Dont know if it sold.

Im sure you can afford a decent frame

Tzr is a much better option you wont be sorry.

I would be tempted to give the frame a run as is Pete, you have a decent front end and a good shock IIRC? That and decent tyres will go a long way toward good handling. Remember Ducati MotoGP bike used a steel tubular trellis frame up untill 2 years ago.

I agree. It's usually the suspension that's hanging off the frame that makes it handle. New tyres and new sintered brake pads make all the difference. If you want a TZR just buy a TZR.

i have a tzr frame..with a engine in it..lol...tzr is a great lil bike and the engine is faster then the 350lc. not as much fun tho..u would not bother unless u found a roller...i actually think the lc is a great handling frame of its day.ride anything from that period and compare.the rear end in the problem really and the front has very light steering with a heavy front wheel and brakes..other wise a good option is a rg250 frame as its a easier fit with just a few spacers...i know where there is a roller for sale

These are someone else's ideas so I can't vouch for anything.

There are gussets added as well as existing welds re-welded (I think you would want to be an experienced welder before doing the re-welding )

My priority would be to take as much weight off that I could and to put on the best quality suspension I could find or afford .

Ozzy, thats exactly what I was looking for !
Will take it on advisement, thanks heaps.

Anyone who re-welds over welds should have the electrodes attached to their genitals and given sharp zaps until they are convinced it's a shit idea.
All those gussets are very poorly executed . The swingarm is already a stiff structure, the gusset or bar would be far better at the point where the top bar turns inwards. A 25mm rib continuing along the top bar would be much more effective.
A proper gusset should be arced at the large end and the weld or gusset NEVER continued into the corner.
Take note of any OEM frame gusset the RZ frame has a few.

Ha Ha, love that Lozza, I guess you think its a bad idea then ..... Dont worry I'm a crap welder so wasnt thinking about any of it without seeing what you thought, which I think you've clarified now (No electrodes needed here !)

I really just wanted to see what could / should be done before i stripped and cleaned the frame etc. Im actually happy to keep the tubular frame thats why I got an LC anyway otherwise may as well just get a TZR / RGV etc etc.

No i'll keep the LC frame for now and just see how she goes with everything on board.

I pinched that pixy from somewhere - I think it was Xavier's the French RD nutter/racer/modifier.

I would even question the need to strengthen the chassis. I would look at the modified race bikes and talk to the racer.

My first mod would be suspension and modern 17in (lighter) wheels. If I then had a prob I couldn't tune out I would look at the frame.

The RD's had a good reputation for handling anyway (and therefore chassis strength and design by association.) The front forks on the late RD's, the LC's and the first RZ were considered marginal and unworthy for a Sports Bike.

Chassis weight might be a different reputation .

But hey, a few extra braces and mods can look pretty trick

I have John Bradley's books 'Technical Guide for Constructors" if anyone wants info on this type of thing