2 Strokes Down Under

I doubt, that is I hope, never again to require a crank rebuild - but I might keep one 'just in case'.

So if anyone wants a crank for 'just in case' or any other reason, pony up. You can pick up or I'll post at your expense - you can even have the one with pistons - I'm running 350's .

The tank? The best method is, because it could be panel beaten so much better if you cut (dremel) out a (well-chosen) panel, it then also makes it so easy to get the rust out of the inside thoroughly. Rattling around gravel in it and then pouring in an internal 'liner' will never do that, they are just variations of Epoxy resins, liners just cover the problem up, providing a temporary solution.

Dremel out a panel where you can easily reach behind the dents for panelbeating, and just big enough to get a sand blaster in there. I think from the pics that I would cut out that whole left side knee indentation, that'd give good access to the dented areas, and when it was welded back in, because you have a hard edge to weld around, it would be easy to hide the weld joint with a little filler blending. That hole beneath the front mount will need cutting out and patching, -with this sort of thing I find little brass patches with silver solder or braze works.

With the cranks... start by carefully taking off those pistons, then they won't get damaged while any clean up/de-rusting work is done on the cranks.

It's a big job. Only worth it if you like doing this sort of work. If you don't, sell it to someone who does, -is it worth much? Not at the mo', but if properly fixed, plenty.

I also have some gear clusters as shown. Given the surface rust (the dogs etc are ok) are these useable/redeemable?

All depends on how deep the rust pitting is. Gear pinions are usually case-hardened, and if the pitting is deep it might be through the case hardening, in which case only usable in desperation. Run a wire wheel over the gear teeth, sometimes rust like that can be shallower than it looks. (And if it turns out to be irredeemable, clean it up and stick it on a nice block of wood and you have a very classy little sculpture).

If anyone wants a crank, speak up - they are about to hit the re-cycle bin.

Surely someone in Sydney must be able to save at least one of these cranks... I'd have one but I'm in Melbourne, postage costs would be hard for me.

Don't chuck 'em out O-E.. spray 'em with some rust converter & then pack 'em away..
.. plastic wrapped.. all greasy..
If you imagine you'll never need another crank rebuild.. you'd best think again..

That is, if you intend to both ride.. & hang on to an RDLC, as a keeper..

Also bear in mind that a number of the specialists overseas will take a use crank in exchange against a refurbished one, so that might save you or someone else some money?

Space is finite - I'll keep one - the other two are on death row.

Send all those cranks to Link (check the for sale forum he has a thread in there i think) and ask him if he can make you one good one with the bits and gift him the rest for other peoples problem cranks, thats what i did a while back, got an RZ crank make up by someone who knows his stuff from the knackered old tat I was going to bin and only paid labour. bargain.

The tank... well, youve seen my post on the rdrz500 forum about what was inside the one I cut open Im assuming?

JonW wrote: ↑Mon May 29, 2017 3:11 pm Send all those cranks to Link (check the for sale forum he has a thread in there i think) and ask him if he can make you one good one with the bits and gift him the rest for other peoples problem cranks, .........

A good idea.

JonW wrote: ↑Mon May 29, 2017 3:11 pm The tank... well, youve seen my post on the rdrz500 forum about what was inside the one I cut open Im assuming?

I haven't seen that.