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RD 250 LC
Posted: Sun Oct 19, 2014 12:48 am
by casho73
HI GUYS , jUST A FEW PICS OF THE OLD GIRL BEFORE I START TO STRIP HER DOWN FOR THE REBUILD .
SHOULD BE A ENJOYABLE TIME AND FRUSTRATING AT THE SAME TIME .WELL I PURCHASED THE BIKE SOME MONTHS BACK , APPARENTLY IT HADS BEEN IN A SHED FOR 9-10 YEARS . THE TOP END WAS PULLED OFF PRIER TO THE PURCHASE. AS YOU WILL SEE IN THE PICTURES IT HAS SOME DIFFERENT PARTS ON IT .WELL I HOPE I GET THE PICTURES DOWNLOADED PROPERLY , FINGERS CROSSED .
WELL SOME PICS OF THE TANKS FIRST TO SEE HOW IT TURNS OUT .

SMALL DENT IN THE TOP SHOULD POP OUT I HOPE AND THE RUST DOESN'T LOOK THAT BAD ,SHOULD HOLD THAT COMMENT UNTIL THE PAINT COMES OFF.
WILL POST SOME MORE WHEN I KNOW FOR SURE IAM UPLOADING CORRECTLY
GREG
Re: RD 250 LC
Posted: Sun Oct 19, 2014 5:10 am
by Greasemeup
Clocks look OK
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Re: RD 250 LC
Posted: Sun Oct 19, 2014 8:24 am
by JonW
Ok, close enough but under the pics there are tags with IMG in them, try them next time, they will show here and we wont need to click the links.
I like it, looks like a good project, lots can be fixed or replaced, should be fine. wont be easy, but they never are!
Re: RD 250 LC
Posted: Sun Oct 19, 2014 8:17 pm
by casho73
Thanks Jon , Ive just been into my photobucket account but cant find the img link you talk about .
So it sounds like you must have seen all the pics on my account , The clocks are not that good , no trip knob ,the speedo side is fixed up with silastic and there is a crack where the brake is up against the clock cover.
Would I be rite in saying that the master cylinder is off a rd aircooled and what is the front guard off
?
Also in the last pic , you can notice in the last pic the rear wheel is off to the right side ,at first I thought it was the frame , but its ok . It looks like the rear swigarm is bent or bushes stuffed , will figure this one out once I start to pull down .
Casho
Re: RD 250 LC
Posted: Sun Oct 19, 2014 10:49 pm
by JonW
If you click 'view uploads' you will see the pics as thumbnails with tags under them, its the bottom tag.
Brand new clock covers are 40quid each (upper/lower)on ebay/norbo/yambits(?) etc, trip knobs unscrew so you should get the tail off, then replace with norbos cnc alloy one. new covers and a clean up and youd have nice clocks, the fact you have red on the rev limits is amazing, very few Aussie bikes have that now, theyve faded.
Front guard is good for ebaying, defo not LC. Dunno about master, but replace it anyway, brakes are important. Have a look at rdlccrazy.co.uk and the LC shop page, shows what you want then see if you can find it locally or just buy from him, your call.
wheel defo offset to the taillight... either bent rear subframe, swinger or missing / incorrect spacers in wheel. hows the chain alignment?
Re: RD 250 LC
Posted: Sun Oct 19, 2014 11:47 pm
by casho73
Thanks Jon,
I was in Sydney last weekend , dropped in and saw Paul (grunt33) Obtained a rear tail light complete and 350lc master cylinder and calipers . they need a little bit of work , but a good start.
Paul was great and has some nice rides there .
I also have been on norbos site , Pity we don't have someone like that in Australia , Its great to see what he is doing to keep the old girls like new. Will be putting together a wish list as I go and will try and consolidate freight with group purchases of the stuff I need .
I really havnt checked the rear end out properly , the chain is off the rear sprocket , I will pull it all apart in due time .
If I wake up early enough tomorrow I will start sanding the tank back to bare metal (on night shifts at the moment) Will keep informed . Once again thanks for your comments Jon.
Casho

Re: RD 250 LC
Posted: Sun Oct 19, 2014 11:53 pm
by casho73
Oh I almost forgot , Talking to my brother who is 2 hours drive from home , trying to organize a meeting with an old farmer he knows . he has 2x rd250lc's . One he uses for parts to keep the other farm bike going , Yep he has knobbies on the farm rd250lc . he is to old to ride anymore and is looking to sell. fingers crossed , will see him next weekend . will post pics and let you guys know the outcome .
Casho
Re: RD 250 LC
Posted: Mon Oct 20, 2014 6:02 am
by Greasemeup
The Sharks will be circling whilst we wait for your update Casho..
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Re: RD 250 LC
Posted: Mon Oct 20, 2014 8:03 am
by hybrid
Fixed the pics.
There is a tutorial on how to do it here:
forums/1/980?p=6378#p6378
You've done the hard part by getting the pics on photobucket. You just need to use the right links now, which is the last few steps.
Re: RD 250 LC
Posted: Mon Oct 20, 2014 9:30 pm
by casho73
Many thanks there Hybrid , Woke a little late today , so only striped the rusty spots . Very pleased with the results.

Only two pin sized rust , all the rest was only surface .

The filter look very clean , hasn't had fuel in it for a while .
Now my next biggest challenge is getting the locked fuel cap off (no keys) Any ideas .
There is some loose items in the tank but cant see until the cap comes off what it is like
Casho
P.s Fingers crossed Hybrid with the pics
Re: RD 250 LC
Posted: Mon Oct 20, 2014 9:59 pm
by JonW
Looks good!
Shouldnt be too hard for a locksmith to pick, its a simple lock, I could probably do it to be honest as Ive worked on a lot of these now and know how they work. Sadly youre not local. :/
Re: RD 250 LC
Posted: Mon Oct 20, 2014 11:09 pm
by hybrid
Pretty sure I managed to knock a screw driver into one once and managed to force it to unlock.
Re: RD 250 LC
Posted: Tue Oct 21, 2014 12:51 am
by casho73
Thanks guys , it sounds like the old screwdriver trick , its a plastic cap .
Casho
Re: RD 250 LC
Posted: Tue Oct 21, 2014 7:23 am
by hybrid
You should be able to get a brand new cap as they were the same off some other bike. Can't remember which bike. Only down side is that you'll need two different keys.
Although I think there was also a post on one of the other forums that explained how you could pull the lock apart and file down the barrel pins to bring it back to a single key.
Re: RD 250 LC
Posted: Tue Oct 21, 2014 8:02 am
by JonW
if its plastic then just destroy it, the coveted ones are the alloy ones, plastic ones are 2 a penny and brand new aftermarket ones are cheap as chips.
Keying alike is easy, but fiddly.