2 Strokes Down Under

I the past I've used VHT spray can paint with reasonable results for appearance, rust suppression and heat resistance/flaking off. The issue I've had is that it has scratched fairly easily.

I'm about to do some chamber and I want to improve the durability. I'm not certain if the problem is 'keying' into the surface or priming. This time I was thinking of bead blasting at least and maybe a good primer.

Any comments, recommendation or advice from the collective wisdom?

I think VHT is designed to be used straight on to the metal without primer,- if you used a primer it would need to be VHT too eh? or it will just flake off with the heat. Ceramic coating is good but expensive, and I've known a few lads who've done that but only got a year or three before rusting started. I reckon just prep the pipes really well - blast or thorough wirebrushing, spotlessly degreased, then spray matt black VHT. Then, just be prepared to recoat occasionally, (mine lasts a few years at least).

If we're talking aerosol cans of VHT, anyone got any experiences with particular brands?

In my experience, some sort of abrasive blasting definitely helps in preparing the surface. However, it won't be much good if the coating isn't suitable.

I've also had reasonable results with VHT spray cans, but I have generally found that POR-15 heat paint (http://www.ppcco.com.au/por15.html) is slightly better. Although it is now available in a spray can, I have only used it mixed with solvent in a Preval sprayer (https://store.preval.com/collections/pr ... =188709532). Looking at the price of the paint, it seems to have become more expensive since I last bought some .

The most durable finish I have found so far (I haven't tried any of the ceramic coatings) is heat-resistant powder-coating, which (if I remember correctly) was done by Link Powder Coating at Kings Park. It was more expensive than normal powder coating, but cheaper than all of the ceramic finishes I've seen prices for. I had only one exhaust done a few years ago, which has lasted very well. I think the powder hadn't been around for long when I had that exhaust coated, so the price may have come down a little since then (assuming that it has become more popular and more firms are offering it). I imagine that most powder-coaters will recommend abrasive blasting before coating, but you should probably discuss the details with them before deciding.

Regards,
James

The 'ceramic' VHT spray can in black option works well, I have found ( given properly clean prep),
& provides a good satin-sheen finish that looks like a used original Yamaha finish, for a resto.

Otherwise, cheaper BBQ/pot-belly stove paint works fine, if a heat-proof, anti-rust black - is what you want..

I've been using VHT clear on my mild steel Jolly moto chambers since I've had them and I have to re-coat them yearly and I'm done with it, going to black. Asked a motorcycle painter friend if there was a 2 pak heat proof paint he said use caliper paint in a spray can, it also comes in satin black which I'd want. So I'll give that a go next.

Thanks for your replies guys. I think the biggest issue causing my probs was 'keying' and may be cleanliness/oil free prep .

I think I'll go with bead blasting followed by VHT or maybe the caliper spray can paint. I might check the prices on the power coating out of interest.