'86 250 YPVS Restore

[Gavin]

Gmu, I removed the cables from the servo and tested. Seemed OK. It does work but sounds a bit like it's struggling. Might clean and re-oil the cables.
Jon, with the cables disconnected I can spin the PVs by hand-just. If I flick the ignition several times it seems to improve. If I go back to it a few days later then it's back to the pitiful whine.

I now have an oil leak from the rear face of the oil pump. I did put a new gasket on there during the build but recall the gasket having a rubber ring embedded in one side only. I guessed at which side the ring faced. Any clues?


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[JonW]

hmm, sounds battery related to me... or the servo is very dry, but they usual squeal if they are. FYI you can very gently dismantle the gear side of the servo, clean and re-grease it, but its a bit of a puzzle to get back together, tho it does only fit one way... worth a try?

PVs can be made easier to turn if you loosen the head bolts and stud nuts and turn the barrels, but if you can turn by hand then they are fine usually, the motor is more powerful than you are etc.

Ive never had an oil pump leak at the face, weird, worth checking its tight... and that its gerabox oil, not 2T.

[Greasemeup]

Cable routing plays a big part as well methinks..


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[JonW]

Theyre pretty short tho, Ive not seen an issue with that, but the cables could be old and claggy or broken inside...

[BRG1200]

Swapping parts/motors about and such, I was about to suggest whipping the cables out to test them but the bldy pulley cover mount screws on (one of) my barn find(s) twisted right off, be careful with those old tiny corroded fasteners.

[Gavin]

I've had the cables disconnected but will do them again more thoroughly to lessen the friction. I've grabbed the servo with my hand - it's quite powerful as Jon mentioned.

Jon - good call. The oil leak from the pump is 2T so it may be the rear oil outlet pipe. Hopefully

[JonW]

Give the cables a shot of some kind of lube with a cable oiler (cheap as chips things but bloody useful) or fit new cables... I always do.

Ahh, clear or OEM type pipe? proper clips or bunnings jobbies? you can guess what im gonna say lol...

[Gavin]

I've read about not using clear pipes so I put the original ones back on. Need to check the clips. They didn't seem to make much difference when I pushed them into position. Will report back.

[hybrid]

I might have some spare clips floating around if you need.

[Gavin]

Thanks for the offer. Will be the weekend before I can get back there now and start investigating

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[BRG1200]

Clarke Rubber 3mm ID food compatible petrol proof clear lines, takes the air bubble guesswork out, surely?

[Gavin]

That's what I thought but there is a thread on here somewhere advising against them due to regular issues. Shame as I like the idea of watching the lubrication flowing, or not as the case may be. Adds a safety element to the mechanism. If you find a supplier and the pipes work, let me know.


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[JonW]

Only ever use OEM pipes... plenty of proof the others let in air.

[hybrid]

I'm using silicone ones on my LC.. have been for years.

[BRG1200]

I'll have to have a look at these other threads, I can't see how a line that happily holds oil could let in air through its walls enough to mess up the supply. Seen plenty of bubbles in clear lines that must be more of a percentage than could get through the walls, and if you can see it you know its happening and can bleed it out