. The caustic based solutions work but you have to be careful and they turn blackish when exposed to oxygen.
I might get them vapour blasted - try for economies of scale prices. Does anyone have a guesstimate of vapour blasting?
Carby Body Cleaning.
Carby Body Cleaning.
I've got a number of carbies I want to clean up. Of course I have done it in the past and experimented with various cleaners but I can't remember what was the best and easiest - either a mag wheel cleaner or maybe it was CLR or maybe it was something else .
The caustic based solutions work but you have to be careful and they turn blackish when exposed to oxygen.
I might get them vapour blasted - try for economies of scale prices. Does anyone have a guesstimate of vapour blasting?
. The caustic based solutions work but you have to be careful and they turn blackish when exposed to oxygen.
I might get them vapour blasted - try for economies of scale prices. Does anyone have a guesstimate of vapour blasting?
"A motorcycle is a bicycle with a pandemonium attachment and is designed for the especial use of mechanical geniuses, daredevils and lunatics." - George Fitch Atlanta Constitution, 1916
Re: Carby Body Cleaning.
I use a product called Wonder Wheels, which was recommended in Classic Motorcycle Mechanics magazine but I had to bring it back from the UK. I have recently bought some Blitz aluminium cleaner from Supercheap Auto but haven't tried it yet.
Re: Carby Body Cleaning.
Blitz works well, then try soap pads like Brillo and water.
Re: Carby Body Cleaning.
They are all acids of one type or another, so the key is to make sure you clean it off thoroughly after using and not to leave it on too long.
Re: Carby Body Cleaning.
The Blitz worked well but this was 6 hours later after a thorough soap and water rinse.
Cleaned up with a nylon brush but lost its clean lustre.
The Bing didn't clean as well but didn't oxidise after.
The Bing's fuel bowl is obviously a different metal as is the Mikuni. Slightly different metals and slightly different reaction/cleaning effect
."A motorcycle is a bicycle with a pandemonium attachment and is designed for the especial use of mechanical geniuses, daredevils and lunatics." - George Fitch Atlanta Constitution, 1916
Re: Carby Body Cleaning.
Done loads of those Mikunis and NEVER seen that after a soapy water cleanup. Weird.
Re: Carby Body Cleaning.
Its a late sixties YDS5 carb - might have a slightly different metal. I have some LC carbs to do as well - we'll see.
"A motorcycle is a bicycle with a pandemonium attachment and is designed for the especial use of mechanical geniuses, daredevils and lunatics." - George Fitch Atlanta Constitution, 1916
Re: Carby Body Cleaning.
This is the man I use: http://wetblasting.net/ - there are more photos on the FB page if you follow the link.
The process is a very gentle wet bead blasting, followed by burnishing. It gives a nice even semi-lustrous finish which is a little more resistant to corrosion than the normal cast finish. I have had a few sets of carbs and many other parts cleaned up using this process.
If you give him a ring, he'll probably give you a ballpark figure to do your carbs.
When I get carbs back after this treatment, I put them in an ultrasonic cleaner with hot soapy water (just in case there is any blast medium left in the passages). After that, I rinse the carbs with hot clean water, shake off water, wipe exterior with paper towel, then put them in the oven at about 50degC for 20-30 minutes to dry thoroughly.
Regards,
James
The process is a very gentle wet bead blasting, followed by burnishing. It gives a nice even semi-lustrous finish which is a little more resistant to corrosion than the normal cast finish. I have had a few sets of carbs and many other parts cleaned up using this process.
If you give him a ring, he'll probably give you a ballpark figure to do your carbs.
When I get carbs back after this treatment, I put them in an ultrasonic cleaner with hot soapy water (just in case there is any blast medium left in the passages). After that, I rinse the carbs with hot clean water, shake off water, wipe exterior with paper towel, then put them in the oven at about 50degC for 20-30 minutes to dry thoroughly.
Regards,
James
Re: Carby Body Cleaning.
But what about those of us who have more sense than money James? I mean, subcontracting a job like cleaning carbs seems (to me anyway) weird, very 21st century. Pretty limp-wristed. Is there anything about restoring a bike that gives you pride of the job well done? By you? Yourself.
Or is it just about who's got the most money to spend? Not having a go at you personally (well I s'pose I am really), but we're all seeing (in the mags) the plethora of trendy (but functionally useless) crappy little bikes that have just had bulk money thrown at them via subcontractors (who are laughing all the way to the bank), and the rich owners expecting to get back all that wasted money when they sell the things.
Or is it just about who's got the most money to spend? Not having a go at you personally (well I s'pose I am really), but we're all seeing (in the mags) the plethora of trendy (but functionally useless) crappy little bikes that have just had bulk money thrown at them via subcontractors (who are laughing all the way to the bank), and the rich owners expecting to get back all that wasted money when they sell the things.
Re: Carby Body Cleaning.
So are you suggesting that we have to do every job that is required on our restos or we are somehow cheating jools?
Specialist services are there for those that don't necessarily have the skill sets or equipment to do a certain job and thus have their place imho.
As much as I consider myself a competent restorer, there are jobs that I can't/won't attempt, so they get sub-contracted out. Surely it's about knowing your limitations and how to invest your hard-earned wisely to get the right result.
I wouldn't knock someone for using a specialist service but would also encourage them to have a go themselves where they feel confident to do so.
Rgds
Ozhammer
Specialist services are there for those that don't necessarily have the skill sets or equipment to do a certain job and thus have their place imho.
As much as I consider myself a competent restorer, there are jobs that I can't/won't attempt, so they get sub-contracted out. Surely it's about knowing your limitations and how to invest your hard-earned wisely to get the right result.
I wouldn't knock someone for using a specialist service but would also encourage them to have a go themselves where they feel confident to do so.
Rgds
Ozhammer
Last edited by Ozhammer on Mon Jun 12, 2017 11:07 am, edited 1 time in total.
Re: Carby Body Cleaning.
I use vinegar and water with a bit of dishwashing soap on a toothbrush for a once over first, then drop em in the US cleaner.
I would also remove the brass balls first to be sure the passageways clean up, its something I learnt from Norbos forum. new 4.5mm brass balls are available on ebay etc.
After cleaning a shot of WD40 over the surface usually stops any corrosion Ive found.
Each to his own i guess... Use all the services you like if you want but I try to do everything myself if i can. I only outsource crank rebuilds and paint and id do those if i had the gear...
I would also remove the brass balls first to be sure the passageways clean up, its something I learnt from Norbos forum. new 4.5mm brass balls are available on ebay etc.
After cleaning a shot of WD40 over the surface usually stops any corrosion Ive found.
Each to his own i guess... Use all the services you like if you want but I try to do everything myself if i can. I only outsource crank rebuilds and paint and id do those if i had the gear...
Re: Carby Body Cleaning.
Sorry mate, not meaning to pick a fight! 
Perhaps I should have used more moderate terminology.
Just let's encourage people to DIY if they have the time. Life has taught me that most people can do most things if they try. The 'limited skill-set' is often 'a self-limited skill-set', people can learn new skills, and it can be really satisfying and improve people's self-esteem into the bargain.
And I'm not suggesting 'cheating', what I am suggesting however is the recent phenomenon of 'cheque-book restoration'.
Perhaps I should have used more moderate terminology.Just let's encourage people to DIY if they have the time. Life has taught me that most people can do most things if they try. The 'limited skill-set' is often 'a self-limited skill-set', people can learn new skills, and it can be really satisfying and improve people's self-esteem into the bargain.
And I'm not suggesting 'cheating', what I am suggesting however is the recent phenomenon of 'cheque-book restoration'.
Re: Carby Body Cleaning.
No dramas jools, I get your concern about cheque-book restos and tbh, even doing as much as you can yourself, it can still be an expensive exercise in my experience. Thankfully our market isn't quite as bonkers price-wise as the UK (yet anyways) and hopefully it stays that way for a while longer.
Like you say, we can all learn new skills if we really want to and the more of a resto you do yourself, arguably the greater the satisfaction with the end result. It is more about knowing your true limitations and only using outsourced services where necessary. After all, there is little point in spending $500-$600 on paint, a compressor and spraying gear, when getting that done professionally would be similar money. Of course, once bought, you would have the gear for the next job but painting is a difficult skill to master to the point where you could match a professional, so not sure I want to go there personally. Plus you need the space/environment to do something like that, which I personally don't living in the 'burbs.
As long as folks are giving it a go to the best of their own ability and bringing old bikes back to life in the process, I am good with whatever way they go about that.
Like you say, we can all learn new skills if we really want to and the more of a resto you do yourself, arguably the greater the satisfaction with the end result. It is more about knowing your true limitations and only using outsourced services where necessary. After all, there is little point in spending $500-$600 on paint, a compressor and spraying gear, when getting that done professionally would be similar money. Of course, once bought, you would have the gear for the next job but painting is a difficult skill to master to the point where you could match a professional, so not sure I want to go there personally. Plus you need the space/environment to do something like that, which I personally don't living in the 'burbs.
As long as folks are giving it a go to the best of their own ability and bringing old bikes back to life in the process, I am good with whatever way they go about that.
Re: Carby Body Cleaning.
The experimentation continues - despite my best intentions
It has become a multistage process firstly a general clean of dirt, grim, petrol stains and petrol gum, 2/ the aluminum cleaner them 3/rinse/neutralising.
1/ for general cleaning I've used several products and what works best depends on what is to be removed. Generally I've found CT18 best. I haven't tried it yet (because I haven't had the prob) but I suss a carby cleaner would work best on heavy gum you find in the carby bowl and to clean passage ways).
2/ I've been using Blitz - phosphoric acid.
3/ For rinse I've used hot soapy water and to neutralise I've used bushed on dissolved bicarb of soda. My (bad) school boy science tells me Jon's vinegar is also an alkaline and would neutralise an acid.
Finish: I haven't done it yet but i the past I've use silicon spray which worked well and I think would be better than Jon's WD.
The results have varied. The early Mikuni's clean easiest but the late Mikuni's and the Bings have dark patches the Blitz won't touch. I'm going to try brushing with a nylon brush using the drill and the Dremmel.
I've used ultra sonic in the past and found that absolutely useless. For best result on the outside I think the vapour blasting of one type or another gets the best results (I might yet try home style soda blasting for the body).
May the experiment continue
It has become a multistage process firstly a general clean of dirt, grim, petrol stains and petrol gum, 2/ the aluminum cleaner them 3/rinse/neutralising.
1/ for general cleaning I've used several products and what works best depends on what is to be removed. Generally I've found CT18 best. I haven't tried it yet (because I haven't had the prob) but I suss a carby cleaner would work best on heavy gum you find in the carby bowl and to clean passage ways).
2/ I've been using Blitz - phosphoric acid.
3/ For rinse I've used hot soapy water and to neutralise I've used bushed on dissolved bicarb of soda. My (bad) school boy science tells me Jon's vinegar is also an alkaline and would neutralise an acid.
Finish: I haven't done it yet but i the past I've use silicon spray which worked well and I think would be better than Jon's WD.
The results have varied. The early Mikuni's clean easiest but the late Mikuni's and the Bings have dark patches the Blitz won't touch. I'm going to try brushing with a nylon brush using the drill and the Dremmel.
I've used ultra sonic in the past and found that absolutely useless. For best result on the outside I think the vapour blasting of one type or another gets the best results (I might yet try home style soda blasting for the body).
May the experiment continue
"A motorcycle is a bicycle with a pandemonium attachment and is designed for the especial use of mechanical geniuses, daredevils and lunatics." - George Fitch Atlanta Constitution, 1916
Re: Carby Body Cleaning.
Vinegar is an Acid Graeme, it only becomes alkaline when consumed.
I used the term 'WD40' for all of its ilk, but while I do use silcone oils for rubber parts I avoid them in places where there might be paint or I want things to stick like gasket goo etc, so wont use it on carbs unless there are rubber parts in them (pumps etc) and of course i dont use carb cleaner on those.
Ive found carb cleaner to work only slowly on some internal goop, but it will work eventually.
I found once that proprep style products work well in the US cleaner, but have a low flash point... so dont do that LOL
And Us cleaner is the only way for internals, other than drilling and pulling the balls and using compressed air and cleaner etc.
Keep going mate, you'll find something that works its how I got to where i am with this stuff.
I used the term 'WD40' for all of its ilk, but while I do use silcone oils for rubber parts I avoid them in places where there might be paint or I want things to stick like gasket goo etc, so wont use it on carbs unless there are rubber parts in them (pumps etc) and of course i dont use carb cleaner on those.
Ive found carb cleaner to work only slowly on some internal goop, but it will work eventually.
I found once that proprep style products work well in the US cleaner, but have a low flash point... so dont do that LOL
And Us cleaner is the only way for internals, other than drilling and pulling the balls and using compressed air and cleaner etc.
Keep going mate, you'll find something that works its how I got to where i am with this stuff.